Postwick Grove

Beginning from the Griffin public house, set off down Griffin Lane. The old common lowland pasture of the parish is in front of you. Bungalow Lane follows what was the western boundary of the common from at least the early 18^th century until enclosure in 1863. The common extended eastwards to Boundary Lane.

In 1803 there were 89 agreements or rights to graze a beast on the common. There were two ways into the common, one along Common lane and one next to what is now the northern end of Griffin Lane.

In 1834 the Norwich to Yarmouth railway was built across the common. By 1841 the area was divided into four pieces. At formal enclosure in 1863 what is now Griffin Lane was extended eastwards to give access to the new enclosures. Another new road, Bungalow Lane, was built along the former western boundary.

At the time of the 1871 census, there were families living in 5 tents on the former common.  There was a travelling musician, a brazier, a hawker, horse dealer and a cane chair maker.

Where there used to be a gap in the hedge, now closed off with a notice about the horses in the field, there is a short path into the common which generally rewards exploration in the summer with several stands of marsh orchids. The land here is apparently owned by a gravel extraction company, but the license has expired.

Thorpe Asylum

The Asylum was built in 1811 to 1814 to a design by Francis Stone and was remodelled on several occasions in the 19^th century. The North annex was built several decades later.

The asylum was considered a model institution in its day, although the conditions would probably horrify anyone involved in care of the mentally ill now.

The grounds contain two horse chestnuts visible from Griffin Lane. One is very sick, the other very healthy. The sick one has been attacked by the the Horse Chestnut Leaf Miner Cameraria ohridella and has progressively lost its foliage; the other one is the red flowered sport, which appears to be immune to the depredations of the insect. No-one is quite sure why. (UPDATE: the sick one appears to have succumbed and died).

The red variety can only be reproduced by vegetative propagation, ie all existing examples are ‘clones’ of each other. 

The leaf miner was first observed in Macedonia in northern Greece in the late 1970s, and was described as a new species. It arrived in Wimbledon in London as recently as 2002.

Under the railway bridge can be seen a tank trap from WW2. There were extensive wartime defences in this area, including deep trenching between the asylum and the river, which appears to have been filled.

After emerging from the bridge, the route turns left past the boatsheds, through the gate and under the flyover of the Southern Bypass. The big furry plants here are a variety of mullein, this looks like a type from Greece, Verbascum olympicum  as it is multi headed. The native mullein has a single spike. Country names include Poor man’s Blanket, Feltwort and Flannel.

Rabbits are our constant companions here. Self-heal is abundant along the walk, the name tells us it was a herbalist’s favourite; it was used to ease sore throats. 

Postwick Grove

As Victorian Norwich became progressively more overcrowded and unpleasant, it was common for the city folk to use what little leisure time they had to make boat trips out to beauty spots. When the wherries were plying the river, all trees and bushes were cut back to allow the wind to fill the sails and the landscape was much more open than it is now.

The few stands of trees near the river therefore became precious shade spots for picnicking. Steamers regularly plied trippers to and forth, with Postwick Grove and Bramerton woods being favourite stops. The riverside pubs did a roaring trade – the Wood’s End even had a menagerie, which included such exotics as monkeys and wolves in cages in the 7 acre gardens.

It was therefore natural that when the Norwich School of artists was established, this landscape was painted over and over again. There are literally dozens of examples in line drawings, watercolours and oils. Crome, Stannard and Cotman are just some of the well know names who produced various views of the Grove. Some of them are still easily recognisable today.

Quotes from: Pictures in colour of the Norfolk Broads, with descriptive notes (c1900)

POSTWICK REACH: 

 Lovers of landscape beauty, when sailing down this long straight reach near Whitlingham, will be well repaid the trouble of landing to obtain a view from the top of the eminence known as Postwick Grove, for the exertion will be richly rewarded. The glistening river, animated  with all descriptions of river craft, wending its silent course through sweet meadowland, is seen below; the ruins of old Whitlingham Church stand out prominently on the brow of the opposite hill ; while the parklands of Whitlingham, and the wood- lands of Bramerton, present a beautiful prospect to the lover of Nature's bounty. 

THORPE ST. ANDREW, NORWICH. Our view here depicts the most charming and pleasant suburb of Norwich. Its waters are picturesque in the extreme, while its green marshes, bounded by the wooded slopes, makes it one of the prettiest spots in England. The village church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a handsome and imposing structure, with elegant spire and silvery bells. Thorpe and its environs are favourite promenades of the citizens, its pleasure gardens being a popular resort during the summer months. Good rowing may be enjoyed. A long straight reach brings the tourist to Whitlingham, and
thence on to the eminence known as Postwick Grove, a view worth the visit.

The view from Postwick Grove is worth seeing. The curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts, and every conceivable kind of river craft, lays beneath, the green marshes being bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham. and Bramerton, while on the opposite hill stands out boldly the ruined church of Whitlingham. ''

Most of the old oaks are situated on the high bank; there would have been more but they may have been over-mature when Crome was painting. Most of the trees in the southern section are sycamores. There are large blackthorn thickets, old hawthorns, and one or two apple trees – no doubt the product of discarded picnic apples. The bracken is invasive here, it’s occasionally cut back. Historically, bracken was harvested to provide bedding for livestock, thatching material, tannins for leather and potash for soap and glass manufacture. These days it’s just a bit of a nuisance.

Note the dog’s mercury on the right of the path under the shade of the sycamore.

The river at the Grove was dredged to allow cargo boats to come up to Norwich, and it is deep here. The wooden structure on the other bank was first built as a landing stage for the boats bringing rubbish out of the city of Norwich, the site on the other side was at one time a tip.

We emerge through the gate into the lovely meadow.  The path continues as far as the opposite bank to the Woods’ End pub; there was once a busy ferry here. Unfortunately it is not currently a through route beyond the pub.

As well as butterflies and dragonflies, watch out for the barn owls which can be seen here even in daylight. They live in the nest box placed in the last of the three oaks on the left. These trees seem to be the remains of a field boundary, according to old maps. Barn owls are great scoffers of voles, and the largest concentration of them is found in rough grassland with plenty of ‘thatch’. This field is pretty much ideal.

Agrimony grows near the river – the leaves are aromatic and were formerly used in herb teas to protect the voices of actors and singers.

If you walk almost as far as the gate where you come to the sheds, veering right off the path towards the river you can find some grassy, hidden bankside spots ideal for picnicking and birdwatching. There is a concrete drain outlet at one spot where you can regularly see the bright blue Black-tailed Skimmer dragonfly basking in the sun.

Postwick Hall is on the site of a 16^th century house, remodelled in the 17^th century and again in the 19^th after being acquired by Lord Roseberry. A dairy is recorded on the site prior to the 16^th century . In the field to the east of the main part of the Grove, a substantial hoard of Roman coins was found some years ago.

One of Crome's Views of the Grove

 

The scene today is still recognisable, and in some of the paintings of this period the vista has really hardly changed at all.

BUT, two decisions were taken which greatly affected the Grove and people's enjoyment of it, decisions which would probably appal countries and cities which take their artistic heritage more seriously.

Firstly, the Whitlingham Sewage Works were built on the opposite bank in the 1950s to deal with the growing city's waste. Not only does this add some awful smells to the background aroma but the quality of the river is poorer after its outfall, as may be imagined.
Secondly the Southern Bypass smashes straight through the approach to the Grove and you need to walk well into the treed area, and have the wind blowing in the right direction, to get away from the noise.

However, the last stretch of the path is glorious and it emerges into one of the most lovely and tranquil meadows left near Norwich.