The Norwich School of painters, founded in 1803 in Norwich, was the first provincial art movement in Britain. Artists of this school were inspired by the natural beauty of the Norfolk landscape and owed some influence to the work of landscape painters of the Dutch Golden Age.
The Norwich School's great achievement was that a small group of self-taught working class artists were able to paint with vitality the hinterland surrounding Norwich, assisted by meagre local patronage. Far from creating pastiches of Dutch seventeenth century work, Crome and Cotman, along with Joseph Stannard, established a school of landscape painting which deserves far greater fame; the broad washes of Cotman's water-colours anticipate French impressionism.
Principal artists of the Norwich School include the self-taught John Crome, John Sell Cotman and Joseph Stannard.
Norwich School Painters were particularly fond of Thorpe and there are many of their works featuring the river as it runs through what was then a very picturesque village. Some of them drew and painted Postwick Grove dozens of times.
The reason the Norwich School are not as well known as other painters of the period, notably Constable and Turner, is primarily because the majority of their canvases were collected by the industrialist J. J. Colman (of Colman's mustard fame), and thereafter have been on permanent display in Norwich Castle Museum since the 1880's. This lack of exposure was remedied in 2001, when many of the major works by the Norwich School were exhibited for the first time outside of Norwich at the Tate Gallery, London.
Monday, 25 June 2012
Postwick Grove
Beginning from the Griffin public house, set off down Griffin Lane. The old common lowland pasture of the parish is in front of you. Bungalow Lane follows what was the western boundary of the common from at least the early 18th century until enclosure in 1863. The common extended eastwards to Boundary Lane.
In 1803
there were 89 agreements or rights to graze a beast on the common. There were
two ways into the common, one along Common lane and one next to what is now the
northern end of Griffin Lane.
In 1834 the
Norwich to Yarmouth railway was built across the common. By 1841 the area was
divided into four pieces. At formal enclosure in 1863 what is now Griffin Lane
was extended eastwards to give access to the new enclosures. Another new road,
Bungalow Lane, was built along the former western boundary.
At the time
of the 1871 census, there were families living in 5 tents on the former
common. There was a travelling musician,
a brazier, a hawker, horse dealer and a cane chair maker.
Where there
used to be a gap in the hedge, now closed off with a notice about the horses in
the field, there is a short path into the common which generally rewards
exploration in the summer with several stands of marsh orchids. The land here
is apparently owned by a gravel extraction company, but the license has
expired.
Thorpe Asylum
The Asylum
was built in 1811 to 1814 to a design by Francis Stone and was remodelled on
several occasions in the 19th century. The North annex was built several decades later.
The asylum
was considered a model institution in its day, although the conditions would
probably horrify anyone involved in care of the mentally ill now.
The grounds
contain two horse chestnuts visible from Griffin Lane. One is very sick, the
other very healthy. The sick one has been attacked by the the Horse
Chestnut Leaf Miner Cameraria ohridella and has progressively lost its
foliage; the other one is the red flowered sport, which appears to be immune to
the depredations of the insect. No-one is quite sure why. (UPDATE: the sick one appears to have succumbed and died).
The red
variety can only be reproduced by vegetative propagation, ie all existing
examples are ‘clones’ of each other.
The leaf
miner was first observed in Macedonia in northern Greece in the
late 1970s, and was described as a new species. It arrived in Wimbledon in
London as recently as 2002.
Under the
railway bridge can be seen a tank trap from WW2. There were extensive wartime
defences in this area, including deep trenching between the asylum and the
river, which appears to have been filled.
After emerging
from the bridge, the route turns left past the boatsheds, through
the gate and under the flyover of the Southern Bypass. The big furry plants
here are a variety of mullein, this looks like a type from Greece, Verbascum olympicum as it is multi headed. The native mullein has
a single spike. Country names include Poor man’s Blanket, Feltwort and Flannel.
Rabbits are
our constant companions here. Self-heal is abundant along the walk, the name
tells us it was a herbalist’s favourite; it was used to ease sore throats.
Postwick Grove
As
Victorian Norwich became progressively more overcrowded and unpleasant, it was
common for the city folk to use what little leisure time they had to make boat
trips out to beauty spots. When the wherries were plying the river, all trees
and bushes were cut back to allow the wind to fill the sails and the landscape
was much more open than it is now.
The few
stands of trees near the river therefore became precious shade spots for
picnicking. Steamers regularly plied trippers to and forth, with Postwick Grove
and Bramerton woods being favourite stops. The riverside pubs did a roaring
trade – the Wood’s End even had a menagerie, which included such exotics as
monkeys and wolves in cages in the 7 acre gardens.
It was
therefore natural that when the Norwich School of artists was established, this
landscape was painted over and over again. There are literally dozens of
examples in line drawings, watercolours and oils. Crome, Stannard and Cotman
are just some of the well know names who produced various views of the Grove.
Some of them are still easily recognisable today.
Quotes from:
Pictures in colour of the Norfolk Broads,
with descriptive notes (c1900)
POSTWICK REACH:
Lovers of
landscape beauty, when sailing down this long straight reach near Whitlingham,
will be well repaid the trouble of landing to obtain a view from the top of the
eminence known as Postwick Grove, for the exertion will be richly rewarded. The
glistening river, animated with all
descriptions of river craft, wending its silent course through sweet
meadowland, is seen below; the ruins of old Whitlingham Church stand out prominently
on the brow of the opposite hill ; while the parklands of Whitlingham, and the
wood- lands of Bramerton, present a beautiful prospect to the lover of Nature's
bounty.
THORPE ST. ANDREW, NORWICH. Our view here depicts the most charming
and pleasant suburb of Norwich. Its waters are picturesque in the
extreme, while its green marshes, bounded by the wooded slopes, makes it
one of the prettiest spots in England. The village church, dedicated to
St. Andrew, is a handsome and imposing structure, with elegant spire
and silvery bells. Thorpe and its environs are favourite promenades of
the citizens, its pleasure gardens being a popular resort during the
summer months. Good rowing may be enjoyed. A long straight reach brings
the tourist to Whitlingham, and
thence on to the eminence known as Postwick Grove, a view worth the visit.
The view from Postwick Grove is worth seeing. The curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts, and every conceivable kind of river craft, lays beneath, the green marshes being bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham. and Bramerton, while on the opposite hill stands out boldly the ruined church of Whitlingham. ''
thence on to the eminence known as Postwick Grove, a view worth the visit.
The view from Postwick Grove is worth seeing. The curving reaches of the river, animated with yachts, and every conceivable kind of river craft, lays beneath, the green marshes being bounded by the woods of Thorpe, Whitlingham. and Bramerton, while on the opposite hill stands out boldly the ruined church of Whitlingham. ''
Most of the
old oaks are situated on the high bank; there would have been more but they may
have been over-mature when Crome was painting. Most of the trees in the
southern section are sycamores. There are large blackthorn thickets, old
hawthorns, and one or two apple trees – no doubt the product of discarded
picnic apples. The bracken is invasive here, it’s occasionally cut back. Historically,
bracken was harvested to provide bedding for livestock, thatching material,
tannins for leather and potash for soap and glass manufacture. These days it’s
just a bit of a nuisance.
Note the
dog’s mercury on the right of the path under the shade of the sycamore.
The river at the Grove was dredged to allow cargo boats to come up to
Norwich, and it is deep here. The wooden structure on the other bank was first
built as a landing stage for the boats bringing rubbish out of the city of
Norwich, the site on the other side was at one time a tip.
We emerge
through the gate into the lovely meadow.
The path continues as far as the opposite bank to the Woods’ End pub;
there was once a busy ferry here. Unfortunately it is not currently a through
route beyond the pub.
As well as
butterflies and dragonflies, watch out for the barn owls which can be seen here
even in daylight. They live in the nest box placed in the last of the three
oaks on the left. These trees seem to be the remains of a field boundary,
according to old maps. Barn owls are great scoffers of voles, and the largest
concentration of them is found in rough grassland with plenty of ‘thatch’. This
field is pretty much ideal.
Agrimony
grows near the river – the leaves are aromatic and were formerly used in herb
teas to protect the voices of actors and singers.
If you walk
almost as far as the gate where you come to the sheds, veering right off the
path towards the river you can find some grassy, hidden bankside spots ideal
for picnicking and birdwatching. There is a concrete drain outlet at one spot
where you can regularly see the bright blue Black-tailed Skimmer dragonfly
basking in the sun.
Postwick
Hall is on the site of a 16th century house, remodelled in the 17th
century and again in the 19th after being acquired by Lord Roseberry.
A dairy is recorded on the site prior to the 16th century . In the
field to the east of the main part of the Grove, a substantial hoard of Roman
coins was found some years ago.
 |
| One of Crome's Views of the Grove |
BUT, two decisions were taken which greatly affected the Grove and people's enjoyment of it, decisions which would probably appal countries and cities which take their artistic heritage more seriously.
Firstly, the Whitlingham Sewage Works were built on the opposite bank in the 1950s to deal with the growing city's waste. Not only does this add some awful smells to the background aroma but the quality of the river is poorer after its outfall, as may be imagined.
Secondly the Southern Bypass smashes straight through the approach to the Grove and you need to walk well into the treed area, and have the wind blowing in the right direction, to get away from the noise.
However, the last stretch of the path is glorious and it emerges into one of the most lovely and tranquil meadows left near Norwich.
Cary's Meadow
The meadow was originally grazing meadow associated with a farmer of the same name. In the 1960s it was first suggested that the city ring road should be completed by continuing from the bottom of Harvey Lane towards the County hall junction, and although that idea was eventually dropped the site was once again earmarked for the Sainsbury's superstore that was eventually built on Pound Lane.
In preparation for various phases of building work which never materialised, very large quantities of rubble and brick were dumped on the site, turning it, temporarily, into a wasteland.
When the proposal for a superstore surfaced local people fought hard to have the site's importance recognised and protected. Eventually the meadow was rented to Broadland Council by Sainsburys for a peppercorn rent and the Norwich Fringe project was finally invited to manage it. After doing so for many years the management of the meadow is now back 'in-house'.
By now the rows of old Norwich terraces smashed up and piled on to the site had grassed over and turned it into a nutrient poor, wildflower-species rich meadow.
There are several unusual species on the meadow of which the most showy are the orchids. They are not always easy to locate or particularly obliging for us walkers in their flowering habits, but as well as the Common Spotted, Bee Orchid and Southern Marsh Orchid that I have seen, the Pyramidal orchid is also recorded.
The walk we carry out in the summer looks at the following points of interest, starting from the car park at Broadland Council offices on the Yarmouth Road.
Thorpe Lodge
Dates from around 1800, but there has been a house here since at least 1600. It was built by John Harvey, a Norwich banker, textile manufacturer, and former mayor.
He introduced the manufacture of shawls to Norwich, for which it was once famous. He was also a property developer who was involved in the replanning of Thorpe Hamlet after Carrow and Foundry Bridges were built in 1810. He had the estate from his father in law, Sir Roger Kerrison.
Harvey Lane was originally Rose’s Lane, it was diverted westwards to give the Lodge a bigger garden and at this time the crinkle-crankle wall was built. The house has since lost one wing and part of a storey.
The octagonal summerhouse was built by Harvey, later adapted as a camera osbcura. Light was admitted into the darkened chamber through a double convex lens, forming an image of external objects on paper or glass.
A few yards east of the summerhouse there is a tunnel under the road, built as a gardeners’ passage between Thorpe Lodge and Thorpe Hall, faced with flint and brick. In the past it has been lit with coloured lamps to provide a feature for visitors to events in the gardens. It is now sealed and is home to a colony of bats. The entrance to the bat tunnel is visible in the far corner of the small piece of woodland which lies to the NE of Cary's Meadow.
Crossing the road to the small car park at the entrance to the meadow, visitors can decide if they want to walk clockwise or anti-clockwise, cut across the middle or just meander! The best of the orchids are, as you stand at the entrance to the site, on your left and in front of you.
To your far left lies:
Thorpe Hall
Thorpe Hall was probably a 14th century courtyard house. It may have been built as the centre of a new agricultural area formed by the clearance of woodland to the east of Harvey lane.
It was primarily a farm run by the bishop’s bailiff to provide income and produce for the bishop and his household. It was also the manor house of Thorpe by that time, although the original Saxon manor was quite probably near the top of Thunder lane. Various Bishops stayed here but by the early 16 century the hall and parts of the manor estate were let to tenants. It was remodelled and rebuilt by the Pastons in the late 16th century. Harvey introduced some Tudor and Jacobean doorways taken from other properties he owned, and gave it to his sixth daughter Harriot.
In the 20th century it was owned by a boat builder who demolished the fine chapel to make way for an engine repair shop in 1936. It was badly vandalised in the 1970s and restored in the 1980s after a public campaign to save it. Housing now fills much of its former grounds.
The western boundary of the Hall, the dyke and flint wall, still remain. The dyke forms the eastern boundary of the meadow.
If you have chosen to walk to your left and have passed the housing which has been built in the grounds of the hall, the path begins to turn to your right again as you near the river. There is a stile here off to the left which leads to a short path down to the river bank. This area has recently been (almost) cleared of that noxious weed, Japanese Knotweed, which is a pest in the parish and infests several areas close to the river. There is a new short boardwalk and a simple bench overlooking the water.
Harvey instigated the Thorpe Water Frolic in 1821 as a sporting and social event, mainly for the gentry. 10,000 weavers attended in 1823 because they were given a holiday! The gentry amused themselves on the north bank and the working population on the south. A famous painting by Joseph Stannard was commissioned by Harvey to immortalise the event - it takes some liberties with the actual position of the patron's grand house. Harvey is said to have got the idea from witnessing water-borne processions and races etc in Venice while on the Grand Tour.
Some more details about the Frolics and the painting can be found here
http://aquariumofvulcan.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/thorpe-water-frolic.html
The path at the southern edge of the meadow features at various times some now uncommon plant species, including Bee Orchid, Hoary Mullein and Field Scabious.
Elsewhere you can see Wild Carrot, masses of Birdsfoot Trefoil, Horseradish, Burdock and the Ragwort so beloved of the stripey caterpillars of the cinnabar moth. For more detail on the vital role played by ragwort in the insect food chain, and some of the ill-founded hysteria about the plant, see http://www.buglife.org.uk/conservation/currentprojects/Habitats+Action/Ragwort/ragwortfactfile
In fact the number of plant species reported here is truly staggering and worth a study of its own.
http://www.norwichfringeproject.co.uk/carys.html
In preparation for various phases of building work which never materialised, very large quantities of rubble and brick were dumped on the site, turning it, temporarily, into a wasteland.
When the proposal for a superstore surfaced local people fought hard to have the site's importance recognised and protected. Eventually the meadow was rented to Broadland Council by Sainsburys for a peppercorn rent and the Norwich Fringe project was finally invited to manage it. After doing so for many years the management of the meadow is now back 'in-house'.
By now the rows of old Norwich terraces smashed up and piled on to the site had grassed over and turned it into a nutrient poor, wildflower-species rich meadow.
There are several unusual species on the meadow of which the most showy are the orchids. They are not always easy to locate or particularly obliging for us walkers in their flowering habits, but as well as the Common Spotted, Bee Orchid and Southern Marsh Orchid that I have seen, the Pyramidal orchid is also recorded.
The walk we carry out in the summer looks at the following points of interest, starting from the car park at Broadland Council offices on the Yarmouth Road.
Thorpe Lodge
Dates from around 1800, but there has been a house here since at least 1600. It was built by John Harvey, a Norwich banker, textile manufacturer, and former mayor.
He introduced the manufacture of shawls to Norwich, for which it was once famous. He was also a property developer who was involved in the replanning of Thorpe Hamlet after Carrow and Foundry Bridges were built in 1810. He had the estate from his father in law, Sir Roger Kerrison.
Harvey Lane was originally Rose’s Lane, it was diverted westwards to give the Lodge a bigger garden and at this time the crinkle-crankle wall was built. The house has since lost one wing and part of a storey.
The octagonal summerhouse was built by Harvey, later adapted as a camera osbcura. Light was admitted into the darkened chamber through a double convex lens, forming an image of external objects on paper or glass.
A few yards east of the summerhouse there is a tunnel under the road, built as a gardeners’ passage between Thorpe Lodge and Thorpe Hall, faced with flint and brick. In the past it has been lit with coloured lamps to provide a feature for visitors to events in the gardens. It is now sealed and is home to a colony of bats. The entrance to the bat tunnel is visible in the far corner of the small piece of woodland which lies to the NE of Cary's Meadow.
Crossing the road to the small car park at the entrance to the meadow, visitors can decide if they want to walk clockwise or anti-clockwise, cut across the middle or just meander! The best of the orchids are, as you stand at the entrance to the site, on your left and in front of you.
To your far left lies:
Thorpe Hall
Thorpe Hall was probably a 14th century courtyard house. It may have been built as the centre of a new agricultural area formed by the clearance of woodland to the east of Harvey lane.
It was primarily a farm run by the bishop’s bailiff to provide income and produce for the bishop and his household. It was also the manor house of Thorpe by that time, although the original Saxon manor was quite probably near the top of Thunder lane. Various Bishops stayed here but by the early 16 century the hall and parts of the manor estate were let to tenants. It was remodelled and rebuilt by the Pastons in the late 16th century. Harvey introduced some Tudor and Jacobean doorways taken from other properties he owned, and gave it to his sixth daughter Harriot.
In the 20th century it was owned by a boat builder who demolished the fine chapel to make way for an engine repair shop in 1936. It was badly vandalised in the 1970s and restored in the 1980s after a public campaign to save it. Housing now fills much of its former grounds.
The western boundary of the Hall, the dyke and flint wall, still remain. The dyke forms the eastern boundary of the meadow.
If you have chosen to walk to your left and have passed the housing which has been built in the grounds of the hall, the path begins to turn to your right again as you near the river. There is a stile here off to the left which leads to a short path down to the river bank. This area has recently been (almost) cleared of that noxious weed, Japanese Knotweed, which is a pest in the parish and infests several areas close to the river. There is a new short boardwalk and a simple bench overlooking the water.
Harvey instigated the Thorpe Water Frolic in 1821 as a sporting and social event, mainly for the gentry. 10,000 weavers attended in 1823 because they were given a holiday! The gentry amused themselves on the north bank and the working population on the south. A famous painting by Joseph Stannard was commissioned by Harvey to immortalise the event - it takes some liberties with the actual position of the patron's grand house. Harvey is said to have got the idea from witnessing water-borne processions and races etc in Venice while on the Grand Tour.
Some more details about the Frolics and the painting can be found here
http://aquariumofvulcan.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/thorpe-water-frolic.html
The path at the southern edge of the meadow features at various times some now uncommon plant species, including Bee Orchid, Hoary Mullein and Field Scabious.
Elsewhere you can see Wild Carrot, masses of Birdsfoot Trefoil, Horseradish, Burdock and the Ragwort so beloved of the stripey caterpillars of the cinnabar moth. For more detail on the vital role played by ragwort in the insect food chain, and some of the ill-founded hysteria about the plant, see http://www.buglife.org.uk/conservation/currentprojects/Habitats+Action/Ragwort/ragwortfactfile
In fact the number of plant species reported here is truly staggering and worth a study of its own.
http://www.norwichfringeproject.co.uk/carys.html
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